Cranky's Corner

Give me coffee and no one gets hurt!

Free TrainerRoad!

trainerroadlogoIt’s no surprise to any of my readers that I’m a big fan of TrainerRoad. I’m using it for the second year during the winter to get stronger for the spring, instead of having to suffer for a month or so before you get your aerobic system back in shape.

Anyway, TrainerRoad has given me 2 free months of their service that I can give to my fellow cyclists. So if any of my dedicated readers out there (all 3 of you, lol) would like to give it a shot drop me a comment and I’ll send along the invite for one free month.

Not sure you have the right equipment? All you really need is a “dumb” trainer along with a speed sensor. Heart rate and cadence sensors are optional but recommended. If you have a smart trainer like a Wahoo KICKR then that’s even better but not necessary. If your sensors are bluetooth capable then you should be able to use your mobile device (iPhone, iPad, Android) or your PC/Mac if it supports bluetooth.  But if your sensors are ANT+ then you’ll need a USB dongle for your PC/Mac.

Here is the “Getting Started” page which describes everything much better than I could:

Any questions feel free to ask and I’ll do my best to answer, but this is a great way to give structured training a shot. It has given me motivation to ride on the trainer and I can’t wait to workout again.

GURU Bike Fit

GURU Logo Last week I finally got around to making my appointment for my bike fit on my new CAAD10. Now I had been fitted before on my last bike and while it was mostly in tact it had evolved ever so slightly over time (mostly handlebars getting lowered 2cm). The shop offered to transfer the fit from one bike to the other over (well I could have done that) and while I’m comfortable with that fit I chose to go through a whole fit session just to see where I am today. The CAAD10 is more racy than my TriCross so geometry differences could mean a slightly different fit.

My last fit was done at a Specialized shop and was a standard BG fit. The fitter videoed me on the bike, used some on screen tools to get angles, made changes to the bike and then rinse and repeat like a half dozen times. All in all it was only about a 45 minute process, either I was that easy of a client or the fitter was that good. All in all, like I said it hasn’t changed much only the bar drop with my flexibility.

This particular shop uses the GURU fit system if you haven’t already guessed from the big logo at the beginning of this post. The difference here is that your bikes measurements are entered into the computer and then you ride this “contraption” and the fitter is able to make adjustments in real time as you pedal. I was excited to try this out and it is a weird feeling to feel bars moving and saddle going up and down as you pedal but you can really feel the difference as it happens. It was cool to see what a 100mm stem felt like, it felt great at first but as we kept going it tired out my shoulders, I was too stretched out, so a couple of button clicks and back to 90 we were. Same when for when the saddle got too high and I could feel myself start rocking in the saddle.

Besides the adjustable bike, the system also takes a video of you to figure out your height, joint lengths and a bunch of other dimensions. This allows you to see on the screen your knees tracking etc… It’s all very high tech. On the low tech side of things the fitter still checks leg angles, cleat position etc… Nothing short of thorough.

Here is a video produced by the shop highlighting the fit process.

Once I was happy with my fit on the GURU bike the computer spit out a report with the exact measurements that needed to be transferred to my bike. My bike was mounted in a Cyclops trainer so that I could test out the changes on my bike and make any fine tuning adjustments. None were needed in my case so we were good to go.

All totaled I was there for about an hour and a half, which included spinning on said trainer for about 15 minutes prior to getting on the GURU bike (while it was being set up to match my bike). One thing that is desperately needed is a FAN, because even at low intensities I was working up a sweat with the stagnant air in the shop.

So how did this fit compare with my last? Well surprisingly saddle set back and height were pretty close within ~2mm of each other. Saddle to bar drop is the biggest difference with the CAAD10 being ~2.5cm lower than the TriCross. Going in I expected this to be the biggest difference, although knowing height and setback were so close was reassuring as well.

I haven’t been out on the road yet with the new fit but have been on the trainer for about 7.5 hours over the past week and it feels great. Hours on the trainer will really make you feel any fit issues.

Overall I was impressed with the fit and the attention to detail given to it. It is certainly a better way to try all sorts of options on the bike while feeling the results real time.

It has been a weird winter + updates!

What a strange winter it has been with unseasonably high temps for the past couple of months. Yesterday was the first snow/sleet/freezing rain we have seen and it is just about all gone now and is forecast to be 60 degrees F tomorrow on Dec 31st. This warm weather means I have been able to still ride outside on occasion. Not as much as I’d like because it’s usually almost dark by the time I get home but I have been able to get my new Cannondale CAAD10 out for about 120 miles or so over the past month. When I bought it I figured it would be mounted in the trainer by now and I’d have the CX tires on the TriCross for the mid winter jaunts. But instead the TriCross is still in the trainer, speaking of which…

I’ve had a trainer of some sort for the past 15 years. 2 years ago I upgraded the cheap magnetic trainer to a nice Kurt Kinetic Road Machine fluid trainer. Boy what a difference that made in feel! Last year I took winter training to a whole new level with Trainer Road. It really helped me improve my fitness over the winter and come spring I wasn’t gasping for air at the tops of climbs as had been the case in previous years. Then early this year Zwift came along and I was in heaven between structured training via Trainer Road and fun rides on Zwift – all will still being indoors. So coming into this winter knowing I would be spending a good amount of time on the trainer again (and looking forward to it) I decided to up the ante and purchase a Wahoo KICKR. What a game changer that machine is. There is no slacking on Trainer Road, which is good, plus you can really work on your cadence w/o having to worry about shifting gears and finding that perfect combination. Then with Zwift the climbs become real! Resistance increases as the grade goes up and you’ve got to react with gear changes and even standing like you would in real life. The KICKR is certainly an investment but I’m on it at least 5-6 days a week and has been really beneficial to my training. Plus with two bikes now I’m likely to leave one mounted in the trainer year round for rainy day training sessions.

Now some of my astute readers I’m sure will be quick to point out that Zwift has its own workout mode now, so why am I still using Trainer Road? Honestly, while they are some good workouts on Zwift, I just don’t think Zwift’s workout mode is that mature yet (it is still “beta”). I think for the casual rider who has never done structured workouts before it’s a good step but Trainer Road offers so much more with their plans and metrics. Yes you can get some of that with Strava but not completely. I still use Trainer Road and Zwift at the same time like last year, as it provides a nice distraction instead of just staring at numbers and charts on the screen. Recently I’ve also been catching up in the Trainer Road podcasts while riding so that’s another distraction as well. Although last night I listened to one while doing my FTP test and I really don’t remember any of it… the podcast that is, I certainly remember the test… ouch! (but hey FTP increased by 8%!) I just started my second phase of Sweet Spot training and then will probably get into the Sustained Power build phase and then either the Climbing or Century specialty phases. I don’t race and the biggest thing I have planned so far is an 87 miler with almost 6000′ of elevation so I’m undecided at this point which may suit me better keeping in mind I will be doing other centuries (metric & imperial) over the season.

On to other things… I know earlier in the year after purchasing my Garmin Edge 1000 I mentioned I would do a more complete complete comparison of it against the Magellan Cyclo 505, but honestly I don’t want to waste my time. Software updates to the Magellan have been non existent and there really is no comparison at this point. Garmin continues to update and improve the Edge 1000 with frequent software releases. The biggest complaint about the Garmin is its navigation but in my testing when using the open source maps it has been adequate. Is it as good as routing as the Magellan, probably not, but it has never failed to get me where I’m going either. As for all the other features the Garmin wins hands down.

Well since this will likely be my last post of the year, I wish everyone a happy and healthy New Year! And hopefully old man winter stays indoors for us Northeastern’ers and I can continue to ride outdoors on the weekends!


SPD-SL vs SPD: Road or MTB cleats?

I’m going to attempt to answer the age old question of if road (3 bolt) cleats are better than mountain bike (2 bolt) cleats when using them on a road bike being ridden on primarily paved surfaces. We will concede the fact that the standard 2 bolt cleat, most commonly SPDs, are significantly better off road (mountain biking or cyclocross) due to their ability to tolerate dirt, mud and their “walk-ability” factor due to the recessed cleat and lugged sole.





Just for some background, back when I started riding a proper road bike , a “12 speed”, just shy of 30 years ago, I had toe clips and straps. I rode that until I got my first mountain bike in 1999 and moved to SPD pedals and cleats. The pedals were two sided, one side was a bear claw and the other side had the SPD interface. When I purchased my cross/gravel bike in 2013 I stuck with the SPD interface and put Shimano PD-M540 two sided SPD pedals on it. When the majority of my rides became more paved than not I moved to a set of Shimano PD-A600 pedals. These are single sided SPD pedals which are very light and are listed as a road pedal by Shimano and billed as the “Lightest ever SPD pedal at Ultegra level”.  Over the past year I have been riding with a pair of Giro Empire VR90 mountain bike shoes and would swap between the A600 and M540 pedals based on terrain.

Giro Empire ACC

Giro Empire ACC

Giro Empire VR90

Giro Empire VR90

Which brings us to the present day. With the recent purchase of a proper road bike, dare I say race bike, I began contemplating getting a pair of 2 bolt road shoes. I didn’t need then as the A600 pedals and VR90 shoes were fine but I honestly wanted to see what all they hype was about. The stars aligned one day and I was able to pick up a pair of Giro Empire ACC road shoes at a deep discount. With that purchase made I also dropped the hammer on a set of Shimano Ultegra 6800 pedals (also on sale!) and both were here in less than 3 days.

So for this review I’ll be comparing my 3 pedal systems, 2 SPD (M540 & A600) and 1 SPD-SL (Ultegra 6800). Since my shoes for both systems are both Giro Empires which are basically the same shoe with the same carbon sole that takes any type of shoe variability I might feel out of the question. The only real difference between the shoes is the lugged outer sole on the VR90s and some scuff protection on the uppers.

First lets get the M540 and A600 comparison out of the way. While they are both SPD pedals and share the typical dirt/mud tolerance and high degree of float they are really different animals. The M540 excels at ease of use clipping in due to their 2 sided design. This can be beneficial when starting out with clipless pedals and also if you ride ‘cross it makes mounting that much easier. On the road they work ok, I’ve heard of people complaining about hot spots due to the small surface area of the pedal/cleat interface but that was never an issue with me. I think shoe choice also plays a factor in this as well.  They are also a tall pedal due to the two sided interface so pedal strikes could be an issue if you pedal too early out of a corner. The biggest issue I had with them on the road was when applying a lot of power (big climbs, out of the saddle, etc… ) the cleat would “click” in the pedal. The float built into the pedal allows the foot to move a bit and sometimes that would result in a click while pulling up. It didn’t happen all the time and a foot readjustment would stop it but for the most part I ignored it. Occasionally though it would result in me clipping out which was real annoying when it did happen. The A600s solved both those issues for me. The wider surface area provides a larger platform for the sole lugs to sit on so if you foot does “float” you shoe still sits on a stable platform. Also I have never had an issue of unintentionally clipping out of them even on the lowest setting, they keep your foot secure to the pedal! The verdict: While the M540 pedals will work ok they are better suited for the dirt and A600 pedals win hands down for the road use due to their wider & more secure design along with their increased ground clearance useful when coming out of those tight corners.

With that out of the way lets get down to the real comparison, the A600 SPD pedals vs the 6800 SPD-SL pedals. I have used both on a bike mounted to a Wahoo KICKR and out on the road so I have a good basis for comparison

Lets first talk about power transfer. An common reason I hear a lot to use 3 bolt road cleats over the 2 bolt cleats is due to better power transfer. Personally I think it’s hogwash. You are pushing down on a pedal, small or big platform the power transfer should be the same. When you pull up on the pedal there may be a slight advantage but I’m not sure that is quantifiable as you are more unweighting the pedal than actually pulling up. I have done single leg drills with SPD cleats and never thought I was missing anything – well except in the few instance where I unintentionally unclipped and that was only with the M540 pedals. The hot spot issue could be a valid concern for some but again I think that has a lot to do with shoe choice an not solely on the pedal. (see what I did there?) Verdict: No clear winner.

Now lets move on to walk-ability. A common reason to choose 2 bolt cleats over 3 bolt cleats is due to the walk-ability factor. I admit I was in this camp at one time.  2 bolt cleats are recessed in a lugged sole which provide the rider a sole like a running shoe to walk on. This is great if you are going to be walking a lot especially in dirt or mud – mountain bikers that may need to dismount and walk the trail, cyclo-crossers, or even long distance/bikepackers who may not know what the terrain may bring. But for most road riders you are out there to ride and not walk miles on end. The first time I walked in a 3 bold cleat (SPD-SL) I was like “what is the big deal?” They are fine to walk in for the coffee shop or around a rest stop on a supported ride. I can see the potential for them to be slippery on a wet floor but I haven’t encountered that yet and haven’t seen anyone take a dive either. My hardest challenge is walking on a carpeted floor. It seems much easier to roll the cleat in that situation. Not sure why but that is my impression. Verdict: 2 bolt for certain situations, 3 bolt for primarily road riding.

Which is easier to use? This become a little tricky. A two sided SPD pedal is extremely easy to click into, heck I don’t even have to look. When you move to single sided pedals then you may have to look down occasionally to see if the pedal is in the correct position. This is where I think the SPD-SL pedals win over the A600 pedals. With the SPD-SL pedals they generally fall nose up so just sliding your shoe across the pedal will cause the cleat to hook the pedal and then a push down will clip you in. With the A600s, they also generally fall nose up but need to be more deliberate with moving the pedal into position before pushing the cleat into place. Verdict: Neither is complicated and I generally get my foot in on the first shot 95% of the time but I just think the SPD-SL has the advantage here.

What is left now? Weight. I think it’s obvious that the mountain bike (2 bolt) shoes would be heavier with their lugged sole but by how much? Well with cleats installed on each shoe I weighted them and the difference was a little less than 90 grams. The pedals are only ~13 grams different making the SPD-SL a total of ~100grams lighter or just shy of a 1/4 pound. While that doesn’t seem like a whole lot I did notice my “normal” cadence pick up by 1 or 2 RPM while using them on the KICKR.

Am I a 3 bolt/SPD-SL convert now? Will I be preaching the virtues of proper road cleats from the mountain tops now? Yes and no. I still stand by my original assessment of the right tool for the job. If you are doing mixed riding or always off road then a SPD cleat is the best tool for the job. Pair that with a quality stiff carbon soled shoe and a road style pedal like the A600 and you aren’t losing much, if anything, to your typical 3 bolt road pedal/cleat system. But if you are a pure roadie who grimaces at the thought if riding your bike on anything other than a paved surface then a 3 bolt system is for you. Now the caveat here is if you have multiple bikes for multiple disiplines and you can either afford one good pair of shoes or two pairs of mediocre shoes go with the single good pair of shoes and run a 2 bolt system on all your bikes. You may get sneers from road snobs but just drop them on the next climb to shut them up.


cannondalelogoI’ve been looking around for a new bike – a dedicated road bike. My TriCross has served me well transitioning from my MTB but 90% of my ride are all on the road where the versatility of the T’cross is lost. Between my two local bike shops I basically had my pick between any Specialized or Cannondale model along with a few other quality brands. This search started months ago, at first I was looking at something like a Roubaix or a carbon Synapse, perhaps with discs and even Di2. I can’t tell you how many times I went to the shops looking at and sitting on those bikes. I wanted to like them but they just never spoke to me, so I never even got them out of the shop for a test ride. I guess in my mind they really weren’t all that much different than my T’cross, at least geometry wise. Sure they frames were carbon but I didn’t feel it would be much of an upgrade.

One of my favorite bikes of late has been the SuperSix Evo by Cannondale. The classic lines of that bike just makes me want to stare at it all day. I started looking at the range of models and for what I wanted it was really out of my budget. I was off the disc bandwagon (good since the SS Evo doesn’t have a disc model) but still wanted Di2 or at least a Di2 compatible frame. Unfortunately for me that only meant the Hi-Mod versions. So I started to look at the used market but did I really want to buy a used carbon bike from an unknown seller?

All this time I had only been looking at carbon fiber framed bikes and really had not considered another aluminum frame. The TriCross is ok comfort wise but after 40-50 miles it begins to wear on you. Then I read a review on the CAAD10 which led me to research more and more reviews. I don’t think there was a bad review out there, many compared it to it’s big brother, the SuperSix Evo, some going so far that in a blindfold test they probably could not tell the difference in ride between the two. It seems the difference is on long rides, i.e. centuries the edge goes to the SSEvo, but very subtly with a smoother ride. The bonus is the frame is Di2 ready so it really checks all my boxes.

With that information I set my search on finding a left over 2015 CAAD10. So yesterday I walked into my local shop and was talking with the staff and they all raved about the 10. They had only one left on the floor, in team colors but it was a 58, a little too big. I commented on how I loved that color combo and the salesperson asked what size I was, I told him I was riding a 52 now so he said he would check the storage in the basement to see if any were left. A few minutes later he came up, not only with a size 52 but in team colors no less – it was like finding a needle in a haystack!

He threw some pedals on it and I took it outside for a few spins around their large parking lot. It fit me like a glove. Even with an eyeballed saddle height, jeans and flat pedals I felt right at home on it. It really changed my mind on what an aluminum frame can feel like.

Even with the great discounted price I wasn’t really prepared to buy a bike that day (who would have thought they would still have something like that lying around?) I left the shop sans bike but the shop was holding it for me for a few days. I really wanted to discuss the purchase with my fiance first before bringing home a new bike.

Well I got the green light in almost a “why didn’t you get it?” kind of way, so this morning I went back with pedals and my kit to take that baby for a test ride to make sure it was going to work for me. The salesperson was excited to see me again and had the pedals put on while I changed. Then out the door I went for about an hour ride.

This CAAD10 is spec’d with mid-compact (52/36) cranks and a 11-28 cassette so I was a little worried about it on the hills as I’m currently used to a compact (50/34) with a 12-30 rear. There is a decent hill right out of the shop and after I got to the top, I turned around went down and went up it again! I’m not going to say it was easy and by the time I hit the top I was in the 36-28 combo but it wasn’t excruciating. That’s why I did it a second time to validate my results. I think for any longer climbs I still may want at least a 30 but that’s an easy change later on. After that I just put the bike through it’s paces, some rough roads, some hammering, rollers and a variety of other situations. All I can say is this bike wants to go fast. The handling is superb and when you scooch forward on the saddle, get low and lay down the power it just wants to go, go go! I honestly didn’t want to stop after an hour, but without any way to hydrate I reluctantly took it back to the shop.

Oh and let me tell you the 11 speed Ultegra 6800 shifts like butter. So smooth and crisp. And here I thought my 105 5700 shifted nice but there is no comparison. With shifting like this I don’t know if I’ll ever even bother upgrading to Di2 – it’s seriously that good.

As I got changed they gave it a once over, made a few adjustments for me (lever reach, brakes, derailleurs) and then I packed it up and took it home where I promptly took off all the reflectors (still need to remove the dork disk), added my LED lights, saddle bag & Garmin mount. Still need to get a pair of my favorite Elite Cannibal cages (shop didn’t carry them) and also make an appt at the shop for a proper fit.

I have to give big thanks to Mike and everyone at Outdoor Sports Center in Wilton, CT. They have always been super helpful, never any pressure and certainly cater to their customers.

So without further ado here is my new baby a Cannondale CAAD10 Ultegra 3… well this is the stock photo,  it’s too dark now to take a photo outside.


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